Anyway here is a photo, click it to big it:
ken
Occasional postings on working wood, motorcycles, aviation, life, politics, art and food.
Ohhh! This is going to be bad.
You
know more tosh has been written about sharpening woodworking tools than
a grown man can tolerate. But I shall proceed, but only if you are
sitting comfortably.
There is a convention that sharpness is the product of two polished surfaces brought together at a suitable
angle usually somewhere between 25 degrees and 30 degrees. Pedants may disagree, but I do not give a hoot.
Polished
surfaces are generated by using a course abrasive, then a a grade
finer, then a grade finer. The objective of each stage being, to remove
the scratches of the previous layer. O K, so a shine in this context
would the
objective, yes? The more scratches removed, the more polished and
shinier the surface would become??? I have used a shiny surface to a
chisel back or plane blade back as a sign that I have done a good job
for years.
Apparently
this is just not so. Look at the image below this is a surface created
with an 8000 grit Japanese Water
stone. this is the kind of polishing stone I and many other Western
Woodies have been using for years. they are fast to cut relatively cheap
and they give this great result.
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So
whats the problem? Well look at the second image below. This is the
same tool polished with a NATURAL Japanese abrasive stone. The
scratches are finer that is clear. What is confusing and counter
intuitive is that the surface is NOT so shiny.
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Tomohito-San who has been my guide on this has been trying to
convince me that shiny is not automatically sharp and this is his proof.
I have been using a couple of natural stones on plane blades for a
while and can report a real difference in performance. They cost a lot
more than man made water stones. My stone was about £300 and I only use
it in specific situations where I need a surface from the Tool..."
ken
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