Sunday, August 11, 2019

Splitting Out Stub Tenons

The vise backer board has a stub tenon on each end. The bottom one needs to be made first so the backer board will set on the long stretcher for marking the top tenon and angle of the leg.

One of the nice things about Poplar is it is easy to split and splitting the short wide tenon is a lot easier than sawing.

Next is installing the screw. To install the screw I need both a 2 5/8" and a 1 1/4" Forstner bit, the 1 1/4" is no problem. The 2 5/8" I had to order. It should be here tomorrow but until it arrives I'm dead in the water.

It may be a good thing, a nap and pool time is a good way to spend a hot Tucson afternoon.



  1. Ken make sure you show a pic of these M/T's. I am clueless as to what goes where and why?

  2. Ralph,

    Will do.

    A quick explanation; the mortises are in the long stretcher and the slab near the left front leg (right rear leg if left handed). The tenons fit into the mortises to hold the vise backer board and vise in place yet allow the vise to be easily removed.


  3. Anonymous1:31 AM

    doing a large hole with small ones: (click on the first six pictures - although I would have done six small holes)
    Also useful technique in sheet metal working.
    Beware of he torque with a large Forstner bit if you don't use a drill press; don't break your arm.
    Did you consider a hole-saw?
    How tick are the backer board and the chop?

  4. Sylvain,

    The 2 5/8" Forstner bit is to make a 1/2" deep "lipped" hole to hold a Acetal insert with a 1 1/4" through hole for the vise screw. The good news is I have a floor standing drill press. The backer board is 70mm thick, the chop is 60mm.

    I've used multiple small holes to make a big one on other builds and I've used a hole saw to make the hole for a wood screw. Of the two, most of the time I like using a hole saw if I can find one.