It is a small side table that will live on his patio in Houston. I don't expect it will be passed on to the grandkid's grandkids. Whatever, I'm making it as WX proof as I can, which isn't much other than using pegs and Titebond III with "Outdoor oil" for the finish.
The base/table top for the mosaic tiles is 19mmBaltic Birch trimmed with Cherry. The tables base has Sapele legs and SA Walnut for aprons.
It is one of those projects you can sleep walk through, not a lot of butt scratching involved but it is good to be back in the shop making something.
The top is just sitting on the legs so I can check the thickness of the apron, ended up going with 70mm. Any wider and it looked really clunky.
If I work really slowly chopping the mortises and sawing the tenons I may be able to stretch it out for another day. I hope so, cutting cancer out and repairing the damage is not my idea of fun. It has to be done but I need to get on down the road a couple of weeks first.
One more thing, I don't do a lot of mitered joints and I had forgotten how sweet the Incra 1000 miter gauge works. Get it close then just a couple of adjustments and test cuts and your 45 is nailed. I had the 45 shooting board set up and didn't need it.
ken
Since I got my Millers Falls miter box, I tend to use miter joints more because they are so easy to cut accurately and I think they are underrated. I have torture tested them with and without splines and they are a lot stronger than some say. It is, after all, halfway to an edge joint. Assembly is pretty easy with the tape trick.
ReplyDeleteAndy,
ReplyDeleteI'll say this for miters, when done well they make a pretty joint. In this case strength isn't an issue nor should movement be a problem.
I had a chance several years ago to pick up a nice Millers Falls miter box almost as a throw in to a bunch of saws I bought from a guy that "needed gas money" to get home. I still kick myself for not doing it.
ken