First task is to decide out how the boards will fit, taking grain direction, and reference side into consideration and to mark out the panel. The task is easier for these panel because they will be painted so no need to include figure in the decision.
Here is the first panel marked out with a furniture maker's triangle, face mark, lines across the joint line to help aline the panels while prepping the glue surfaces, a ">" to show expected grain direction, and a "A" to indicate panel position in the box:
After marking out the panel I put pairs of the boards in the vise to true their glue edges. The first step is to create a shallow hollow in the middle of the glue edges:
Then come back and take full length shavings:
Glue pot warming up the liquid hide glue:
Glued and cooking:
Just three more to go before starting the dovetails.
Ken do you have any experiences with using a Stanley version of the LN plane in the pics? I have tried them at the LN tool events and found them to be much heavier than the Stanley's. I have put off buying one because I don't want to have to slug it out all day with something that heavy. Do you find it tiring to use for more intense planing outing?
ReplyDeleteRalph,
ReplyDeleteYou are correct, it is a heavy sucker. Works well for things like edge truing but for extensive work with a #6 size plane one of the woodies will come out to play. I do have a type 9 #6 Stanley and with OM iron it is much lighter but still heavier than one of the wood stocks. The biggest problem with a Stanley #6 is finding good OM iron an chip breakers. If you add a new style thicker iron and CB it will take the weight up close the the LN.
ken