The "test" is quick and dirty, one application of tannic acid followed by the iron solution. For finishing the the tannic acid would require several applications before the iron solution but I have an idea of how the ebonising would work on different woods.
White Oak responded as expected, the Cherry was a surprise how well it worked. The South American Walnut was pretty much as expected, it will go almost black with just oil. Poplar might work better with additional applications of tannic acid prior to the iron and the same would apply to the Red Oak but as tested they were both disappointing.
ken
Ken I can't see the pics here at work. I'll have to wait till I get home to see them. What did you use for tannic acid?
ReplyDeleteRalph,
ReplyDeleteWhite Oak shavings boiled in water for about 15 minutes and then strained. As posted, it is just a quick and dirty "test". I would expect slightly different results with multiple applications of tannic acid with sanding in between before adding the iron solution.
BTW, I really like the way the Cherry looks and it is easier to work than White Oak, cheaper as well at least here and I expect that is the case most places.
Bottom line, I expect to use this method of ebonising on a near future project.
ken
I have that same exact paper in my workshop. I can't remember where I read that tip to keep a roll in the shop to protect my bench but it's been incredibly useful.
ReplyDeleteThis has been your daily content-free commentary.
Gavin,
ReplyDeleteI first started using the paper to protect the floor tiles as we painted the house. Of course there was some left over and all left overs and stuff MsBubba doesn't know what to do with makes a bee line to my workbench. Shortly after that I said "self, that stuff would make a good bench top protector for glue ups and finishing", and it does. I wouldn't be without now.
ken