Joinery work has started, kinda. Because the mortise is angled it is easier to mark out the mortise using the angled tenon. The last of the base mark out is the long stretcher mortise. Once I have a long stretcher tenon cut I can finish the base mark out.
Small brain fart on the mark out, I had the middle stretcher marked too close to the upper stretcher. Not a biggie, the bottom mark should have been the top mark, squiggle a pencil across the top mark and mark a new bottom. If that is the biggest problem during the build I'll be in good shape.
The tenon shoulder is angled 15 degrees which of course means all the base cuts will be angled 15 degrees. You really need a good bevel gauge with a reliable lock for this build.
Shop is getting hot, time to walk away and make a Costco run followed by a afternoon nap. After the nap it's monkey suit and a dark box strapped to my ass for most of the night.
ken
I know its not always easy in the middle of a build to stop and take pics, but I would love to see how you do the angled tenon mortise.
ReplyDeleteBob, my next bench shall be a Moravian
Bob,
ReplyDeleteI will try to remember to make a photo or two. That mortise is several steps away but bottom line, you draw reference lines on the outside and eyeball it. The good news the fit must be "loose" both side to side and expecelly up and down. Up and down needs about a 1/4" extra space. BTW, I've done the mortise just about every way you can do a mortise, drill, twin with a pigsticker and then clean up the middle, wide bench chisel, and so on. They all work and all are a PITA to chop. Just pick one and do it. The good news there are only of 'em, I guess that's the bad news as well.
ken
ken
Should have been "only four of 'em"
DeleteBob,
DeleteForgot to add. the waste "pad" from sawing the tenon can be used as an angle guide as well. Remembered that when I picked a pad up just now, Photos will help clarify.
ken